Ken-chan's car blog

Reuse – Rebuild – Innovate

About me
I came up with the idea for the site to summarize some of my projects especially some modifications and things I learned - the hard/expensive way sometimes ;) Anything you see here - please use at your discretion. I take no responsibility whatsoever for anything you see on this site or use from this site - i.e if you blow up your motor, set your car on fire, flying squirrel falls off a roof and starts keying your door, etc. Otherwise - please enjoy the website!

Archive for December, 2008

Posted by Jack

KA-T3

Recent Addons:

Nissan ’93 Quest alternator upgrade, TurboXS Knocklite.

Stock internals +:

Felpro gasket, 9.2:1 compression altima 98+ pistons, ACL main & rod bearings, ARP 10 mm head bolts, Block cylinders honed & glazed, head rebuilt & tested in home garage…

Tuning:

Emance ECU, SAFC2, N60 MAF, 480cc s15 injectors, AEM Fuel pressure regulator, LC1 Wideband, and the rest of goodies to make it run…

Kat-3

Slight alterations to the stock manifold. No valve of any kind on it; pcv recirculated.  Changes to oil lines & vacuum block as well to make this more modular.

Just oil pan, fuel rail and some other pieces and it’s ready to go…  Started the swap already w/some changes to the setup…  Here is the picture of the motor together…  The hose sticking out is the new spare hose that will be going to a small vacuum manifold (not sure of the best placement yet).  Advantages:

  • Instead of teeing into fuel pressure regulator vacuum source with gauge – it can have a separate source.  I am hoping this would give FPR slightly more response when coming back to vacuum state (lower fuel pressure) as that’s a tiny 1/8″ line feeding gauge and fpr.
  • Running BOV from the vacuum manifold instead of brake master vacuum source (centralized).  Too many sources running off single limited size line will reduce the effective vacuum going to the devices.  Maybe it won’t make much difference but it’s an improvement never the less.
  • future addon: 1 spare port for GM 3 bar map sensor - for safc 2 LO->HI THR switchover point.

Short video snapshots of parts of build.. disregard the paint overspray on the bottom of the block – has been cleaned up.   Along with block surface.

KA-T3 Rebuild

Out with the old – in with the new…

Yey – she runs good – compression is 185-187 psi all across after 12 km drive.

Update – 8000 km after rebuild running 7 psi. Runs great. Slight build up of carbon on #1 & #4 — compression #’s for cylinders 1->4 (195, 189, 189, 191).

Posted by Jack

DIY: Retrieving ECU Codes – 240sx / s14 (OBD1 – 1995)

This is an overview on code retrieval for Nissan 240sx / S14 with OBD1 ECU – KA24DE motor (1995).  This DIY along with the OBD1 ECU error codes may also work on other versions of 240sx, but you may want to verify your own information.  Please note that the error codes were sourced from 1995 Factory Service Manual for Nissan 240sx.  Having said that, let’s get going…

 


And here is the link to the MS Excel sheet featuring the list of Nissan 240sx OBD1 ECU codes.

http://www.makemilk.com/pic_hosting/s1495/diy/retrieving_ecu_codes/s14-1995_ecu_error_codes.xls

Some notes on retrieving codes:

-codes will follow consecutively one another followed by a long pause – for example:

you might get code 12 (if MAF signal is bad) then long pause then code 25 (IACV / IAAV) and then long pause again and they’ll keep looping so if you miss them first time around, you’ll be able to pick them out soon again.

-Code 55 (5 long flashes followed by pause and 5 short flashes) indicates that there is no error.  This will also show up when you reset the ECU codes.  Basically it means: no error code was stored.

 

An alternative to this is to get NISSAN consult box that hooks up to laptop shown below… please click the picture for more information…

Nissan Consult - obtaining realtime data from your cars computer

Nissan Consult - obtaining realtime data from your car's computer

Posted by Jack

DIY: Taking out a seized stud

There are many ways to remove a seized stud – easiest way – get a stud extractor.  But if you don’t have one, here is a diy that will help you remove the stud without damaging it.